We already went over WHY you should print your photos in Part One, now lets talk about HOW to go about printing your photos. I’m going to start with some basics your should know.

Print Aspect Ratios: “What is an aspect ratio?” you ask. An aspect ratio is the proportions of the image width to height. It is a number expressed in an x:y format. For example, a 4x6 is a 2:3 ratio. Most digital cameras shoot in a 2:3 aspect ratio. But, how does this translate to print sizes? That means that when printing your photos, to have it look exactly like the image you shot, you would need to print it as a 4x6, 6x9, 12x18, 16x24, or 20x30 size. But you also may know that common print sizes are 4x5, 5x7, 8x10, 11x14, 16x20, 20x24…..so how does that effect your images? See, common print sizes were based on film cameras, which has a 4:5 aspect ratio. So anytime you are shooting with a digital camera but printing traditional size prints, your image is automatically going to crop off the longest side to fit the different aspect ratio. As a professional, I know this, so when I shoot, I leave extra room to account for the image area I know I will loose when printing a different ratio that does not match the aspect ratio I shot in. I often get asked by clients if I can “crop it in closer”, and have to explain to them what that extra space is for. So what you need to know and understand is, if you want your image to print like it was shot, use the 2:3 ratio print sizes (but you may have to order custom frames) or it will automatically be cropped due to ratio difference when printing at traditional print size ratios.

Quality Loss: Anytime you enlarge (print bigger than the actual photo file size), you are going to have a loss of quality (i.e. grainer, less sharp). All cameras shoot different size files, and just know that is one of the reasons a more expensive camera is going to translate into better prints than a less expensive camera. You are paying for something that shoots larger size files. The average consumer grade DSLR is going to produce about an 8x10 file, a semi pro about an 11x14, and pro level cameras are a minimum of 16x24. That means when you print anything larger than the file produced by the camera, quality of the print will be effected. The same goes for cropping the image file in post production. Again, back to people asking to crop images in Photo Shop…..if I shot a full body group shot with 5 people, and they want me to crop in to a headshot of just two of the individuals, and then print it as a 16x24, it is not going to look very good (at all). Remember, the original file size is 16x24, and you are cropping it down to what amounts to about a 4x6, yet still enlarging it to a 16x24, which is going to result in some major quality loss. While yes, you can always crop after the fact, you should always aim to shoot it in camera as you would like it to appear, or you will be eliminating info and creating a smaller size file to work with. Keep in mind, when printing, don’t crop in so much that you completely destroy the quality of the image or you won’t be happy with the print.

Color Accuracy: This subject is very technical but I’m going to try to keep it brief and simple. Cameras, computers, and printers have something called color profiles. If color profiles don’t match between the computer screen you are viewing and the printer, the color will print differently than it appeared. There is also something called color calibration - you can use devices to make sure your computer screen colors appear more accurately (this is a color temperature setting that is tweaked). When you change the brightness and contrast of your screen, it also effects how colors are displayed. I often times hear from clients that the colors of the prints don’t match what they looked like on the screen….this is because the screen is not calibrated to accurately display the color profile (or they use a crappy lab to print). When properly calibrated, they will match. My computer is calibrated to match the profile of the lab I use for printing so that colors are accurately displayed. You calibrate, send for test prints, and then hopefully they come back and match, but if not, you go back and do some tweaks. You can also print through a lab that offers color corrections - they don’t know exactly what the image is suppose to look like, but they do their best to produce a print that will match true to life color. But if you would like to calibrate your computer monitor, check out something like Spyder Pro or Color Munki. Phones tend to have fairly accurate viewing for color, but beware of special settings for nightime and brightness that may effect the accuracy of what appears compared to what prints.

Print Labs: Please know that all print labs are NOT equal. Most labs print digitally instead of chemically nowadays. The quality of paper, printer, and ink makes a huge difference in quality and longevity of your print. I’m not going to point fingers at who NOT to use, but if you get constant “x free print” coupons on a weekly basis or delivered in with your Zulily order, you probably can assume that is one you should not use (I know you know who I’m talking about). Pro print labs are always going to be the best, which is why I offer all of my clients the option to place orders through a pro lab connected to their viewing galleries. But if you are printing your own prints not taken by a professional offering this service, pro labs do require a business license to sign up in most cases, so you will not be able to order directly from them. Consumer grade labs I will recommend are Mpix, Nations Photo Lab, Finer Works, and Artsy Couture to name a few.

Photo Product Options: I remember the days when you could only order traditional prints. Now, there are so many options! Books, magazines, canvas, metals, wood prints, folios, etc. - the options are almost endless. My favorite product will always be photo books - its a great way to print a storybook style group of images. Books are perfect for organizing groups of images from vacations, milestones, your whole year in review, weddings and other celebrations, or professional photo shoots. I also love big canvases for the wall - you can decorate your home with personal images instead of stock images for less of an investment than buying copies of paintings and other art from a big box store. Plus, when you order canvas, you don’t have to purchase super expensive frames like you do with traditional prints. If you have a more modern feel to your home, let me suggest to you metal prints - they are absolutely fantastic. Metals are great for superior color vibrancy and look ultra modern up on a wall when you order a gloss finish. But if you are more of a nature loving, rustic person, wood prints are the way to go - the grain adds a very homey feel. I also love the hanging canvas from Smallwoods for a rustic home or their framed prints for a farmhouse (Found Here).

Most labs will offer special software for album design, creating cards and other press printed design products directly through their ordering site or downloadable ROES order software. But my personal go-to for album designs is Album Stomp. This program helps me design albums in less than 1/4 of the time it use to take me - it is all drag and drop with multiple design options to select from.

I know many of you are DIY printers, so hopefully that helps you out. If you seriously find yourself struggling to create beautiful display products from your photos, contact a professional and see if they can help you. Or if you have questions, feel free to leave them under the comments section on this post and I will try to answer them for you.