Which Digital Camera is Right for you? A guide for Beginners and Hobbyist Photographers

This time of year I inevitably get at least a dozen messages asking me for my opinion on what camera to buy someone for Christmas. While I absolutely don’t mind answering that question, or helping you find the right one to get for your loved one, I thought it might be easiest to make a permanent blog post I can refer y’all to as you begin your shopping journey that goes over the basics of what you should know about camera equipment and brands before purchasing.

Image courtesy of Fujifilm America

Main Rule Number One:

With camera equipment, you get what you pay for

As with most things technology based, price does reflect quality. No matter what manufacturer you pick, the cameras within the same budget range are going to have similar specs and features. Also, when one manufacturer runs a sale, you can pretty much bet they all are going to. If you take one thing away from reading this blog post, let it be this: budget as much as you can afford and save up if you have to. Most new models come out at the end of the year and you can pick up the previous model for hundreds less if you wait until that time to do your shopping (and it coincides perfectly with Christmas shopping).

I won’t spend a lot of time talking about what camera body to buy, because in reality, the body isn’t all that important. You get what you can afford, simple as that. Some will have more features, some will have less. Some will have more megapixels (larger file size for printing), some a large sensor (better image quality). An entry level camera is going to be under $1,000, a hobbyist or mid level professional $1000-$2000, and a professional camera anywhere from $2500 on up.

This entire paragraph is my personal opinion. Take it for what it is worth. I’m a Sony shooter. I use to shoot Nikon. I’ve used Canon. I like Fuji (for professional grade equipment). I chose Sony because they are always ahead of the game. Before mirrorless was a thing, they created the a99, a DSLR hybrid with an electronic viewfinder (allows you to see live exposure changes in camera). This came out YEARS before any other company had this technology, which we now know as mirrorless cameras, and many manufacturers produce. Now Sony has created the new “global shutter”, which I won’t go into detail about, but it is new technology, and mark my word, everyone will be chasing it and copying it. I chose Sony because they offer the most cutting-edge technology and at affordable prices (well I suppose affordable is a relative term). I like Nikon because nothing beats a good Nikon lens. It just doesn’t. And the range of lenses they offer is also phenomenal. Why am I not a Canon fan? I do think they have nice color. I don’t think they have leading technology, and I don’t like their camera menus. I think they are the least user friendly option. That is the top three manufacturers in a nutshell, based on my opinion. Go to a store, handle them, see which feels right to you, and go with it! I can go on and on for hours about each, pros and cons of all of them, so if you want an in-depth opinion on something, just ask me, I guarantee I have an opinion.


tYPES OF dIGITAL cAMERAS

  1. Point and Shoot: This camera has a lens already attached to it that is not interchangeable. They’re small, convenient and compact. You can get low end models and high end models ($100-$1000) - the high end will have more setting options and most likely will let you shoot in full auto or manual mode (a must in my opinion if you’re serious about photography). If you are just a casual photographer looking to capture some family memories, one of these will do you well. If your end goal is to be able to print your photos, this is still better than a cell phone as it will take much larger sized, printable files. If your photography is going to just live online, you may just want to stick with your cell phone. When purchasing a point and shoot style, I highly recommend Canon Powershot G series models. Pros: compact, wide zoom range, easy to use with multiple auto modes Cons: Built in lens doesn’t offer as good of sharpness and image quality, can’t upgrade, can’t choose your own settings on many models

  2. DSLR: Camera body has interchangeable lens options and wide range of settings. Purchasing a DSLR allows the most amount of options and upgrades for hobbyist photographers (and professionals) Pros: tons of equipment options, variety of quality and price points, can upgrade lenses Cons: Heavy and larger bodies

  3. Mirrorless: a newer option, and the way all digital photography is moving (a lot of manufacturers are no longer making DSLR models as of recent releases), mirrorless cameras offer the same options and upgradeability as a DSLR, just have a different shutter system and electronic viewfinder (which can take some getting use to) Pros: smaller, more lightweight compared to DSLR Cons: since it is new technology, fewer equipment options are available, they are not as cost effective


From here on out, I’m going to assume you’re shopping for a DSLR or Mirrorless camera. We’re going to get into what is ACTUALLY the most important part of the camera - the LENS.


Lenses: How to pick the right one (or ten)

Focal Length

Lenses fall into one of three categories: Wide Angle (less than 50 mm), Normal (50mm, this is roughly the same viewing as a human eye), Telephoto (greater than 50mm). You should familiarize yourself with the properties of each, but generally, know that wide angle is good in tight spaces and for landscapes, normal works well for everything, and telephoto is perfect when you can’t get close to your subject, or you want to compress your foreground, middle ground, and background spaces. Lenses outside of the normal range will slightly distort perspective (like the telephoto compressing distances, or wide angle, literally making things wider). Choosing the right focal length for your subject is extremely important.

Prime vs. Zoom

A zoom lens will have a range of focal lengths (say 70-200mm), while a prime lens is fixed as a single focal length (85mm). Zooms lenses offer the most options in a single package, while prime lenses tend to shoot sharper and be less pricey. Zoom lenses are usually heavier, while prime lenses are lightweight. I personally prefer a good quality zoom lens because of the instant options available without having to move and reframe my subject. I also like to carry minimal equipment.

Aperture

I know it can be confusing, but don’t confuse a lens’ aperture with the setting you change on your camera. Yes, they are both aperture, but they are different. Aperture is how much light comes through your lens to create exposure. You can change the amount of light/exposure by adjusting the aperature setting on the camera. This is where it gets different - there are both fixed and variable aperture lenses available. The f-stop listed on your lens will tell you what you need to know and which it is. A fixed aperture lens will let in constant light and is better for shooting in low light conditions. These lenses are often referred to as “quick” or “professional glass”, and will oftentimes have a setting of like f2.8 or f1.8 on the lens. And with the ability to let that much light in comes a hefty price tag. Variable aperture lenses will let a variable amount of light in based on where your zoom focal length is set - at either extreme, it lets in less light than shooting in the middle focal lengths of the lens. You’ll see it labeled as say, f4-f5.6. If you’re a beginner photographer, you can probably get away with using them, and these are most often what is included in with a “kit” if you purchase a DSLR that comes with a lens included. A variable aperture lens is just going to let in less light, which means it can be good for shooting outdoors, but when you need more light inside a dark space or at night to get a good exposure, you’re going to struggle. A lot of you message me because you want to take better sports photos of your kids. There is no way around it - if you want good photos, you need a fixed aperture telephoto lens, and that is going to cost you a real pretty penny. Like 200,000 pennies to be exact.

Let me decode all those numbers for you:

18-35 mm (this is the focal length)

1.8 (this is the aperture - this is a fixed aperture since there is not a dash with two numbers)

DC (the particular type of lens model)

72 (the size in mm of a filter you would need for it or lens cap)

Go grab a lens and see what you have if you’ve never looked at this before.


A Note on Lens Compatibility

Not to get more confusing, but you need to make sure the lens you purchase is compatible with your camera. Depending on if you have a full or crop sensor camera, there are different types of lenses….a crop sensor, like is sounds, is going to crop in, so the focal lengths are slightly different and these are typically labeled ‘DX’ or ‘digital’ lenses - a lower end camera body model is almost guaranteed to be a crop sensor. A full frame sensor takes the same lenses as a film camera, and there is no magnification factor with it - while you can put a digital lens on one, it will increase the magnification and isn’t ideal as there is a significant quality loss. On top of that, make sure the lens mount is correct for your camera body. Each manufacturers’ lenses are only going to fit that brand camera only (with a lens mount converter). And sometimes the same manufacturer has different lens mounts (Sony makes a-mount for DSLR and e-mount of mirrorless, for example).

A Note on Non-OEM Manufacturers

There are some brands, like Sigma and Tamron to name a couple higher end non-OEM brands, that make lenses for all manufacturer lens mounts. Purchasing one of these brands is going to give you nearly the same quality at a cheaper price tag. Unless you’re a professional, you may not notice much of a difference. I personally really like Sigma’s line of art lenses. Other lower end non OEM brands still come highly recommended - like Rokinon, Vivitar, Lensbaby, etc. You just need to be sure you are purchasing the right lens mount for your particular camera if you go this route.

A Note on Used Equipment

You can certainly save money by purchasing used equipment. Ebay and KEH.com are both great places to buy from if you know what you’re looking for (that might need to be another article entirely). I wouldn’t hesitate to buy a lens used (no scratches of course) and camera bodies you need to specifically look for a camera with a low shutter count so that it has lots of life left in it (most are rated around 200,000+ shutter actuations). Buying used can get you better technology for the same price, much like buying a used vs. new car.

Where should I purchase equipment?

I personally like to purchase from B&H online. They have great prices and customer service and I have been purchasing through them for decades now. If they don’t have it, nobody has it. If you want to shop at a store, check out Dodd Camera in Cleveland (2077 E 30th St). Their main store is the largest place to shop in person. And if you want to shop small, check out The Pixel Connection in Avon or YM Camera in Boardman.

Summary:

Hopefully learning more about equipment options gives you the tools you need to make a more informed decision before you purchase. I know all the technical jargon can be a lot of take in, especially if you are purchasing for someone else and aren’t a camera enthusiast yourself. Just remember, buy the best equipment you can within budget. You can always upgrade along the way as your skills improve! I highly recommend going to one of the in-person stores I recommended and having a knowledgeable sales staff member help you get the most bang for your budget! Happy Holidays and shopping!!!!

Laura Imhoff